Many hobbyists, especially those starting out, cannot detect the 12 most common problems found on eBay, Proxibid or other online portals. With more coin sales happening now online, often with unreliable sellers who may or may not have any numismatic expertise, it is increasingly essential to identify problems before bidding and determine whether you can live with the flaw.
When I started collecting, I would ask my local coin shop dealers about how to spot problems. Later, coin club presentations helped me learn. However, with our busy lives and fewer brick-and-mortar shops in home towns, the best place to learn may be on the same platform that causes the confusion: Internet.
Below are problems with explanations about grade-ability and whether or not to bid:
ACID RESTORED
Typically you will find rare or scarce buffalo nickels with dates restored by acid. Because 5-cent Buffalo coins are 75% copper and 25% nickel, a common mixture of acid based household chemicals (don’t try it; don’t experiment) removes a thin layer of nickel to reveal the date, in this case a Type 2 1913-S nickel. These coins may be worth purchasing with low-ball bids if they are key dates, such as this 1913-S Type 2, or perhaps a 1918 over 17-D; but normally these treated coins have little worth and often just serve as hole fillers.
ARTIFICIAL TONING
Artificial toning is done by a variety of methods, from chemicals to heat, typically causing uneven colors that do not blend with luster as a natural patina might on a silver coin. Most artificially colored coins are common dates. If buying on eBay, check out the rest of the sellers items. If most of the selections are toned coins that look like this amateurishly colored one, be forewarned.
CARBON STREAKING
This is actually a flaw caused by the environment, ranging from bad storage in a damp place or in a smoker’s house. Sometimes the streak is really dark tone or grease residue. In any case, I have purchased coins like this and tried to remove the streak using acetone or a commercial dip, and have yet to be successful. A dip may remove the streak if it is toning. But I discourage viewers from ever dipping coins because of the potential harm it can do to the silver.
DARK TONING
Some patinas are plain ugly. Here’s an example, a Mercury dime that is uncirculated and may just be gem. But you wouldn’t know it from the dark tone. In this case, an expert numismatist using a diluted dip can usually restore the luster and brilliance. If you don’t know such an expert, don’t bid on the coin or be prepared for poor eye appeal. With any dip, you are taking a risk of damaging the coin. Don’t do it unless you’re an expert.
DIPPED COPPER
Never use a commercial dip to clean copper. If you do, you destroy whatever luster the coin had. Someone tried to clean this coin with a dip, probably to remove PVC damage, and striped it of its brilliance and worth.
EDGE MARKS
Edge marks occur when bagged coins jostle with each other and the rim of one rolls on the surface of another. Although this coin also has been polished, an edge mark by itself will not prevent a coin from being graded, although it will lose points on the Sheldon 0-70 scale.
PIN SCRATCH
A pin scratch is usually caused by someone misusing a stapler or opening a flip incorrectly. Unlike an edge mark, this will prevent a coin from being graded. Also, this type of flaw is the easiest to miss when buyers place bids too eagerly. (The scratch, by the way, runs from the liberty head band to the “L” in “Pluribus.”)
POLISHED
Polished coins are often passed off as proof-like or deep mirror proof-like. Polished coins are usually only worth the silver unless a key date or scarce variety. Here is an extreme example with a seemingly outrageous suggested retail price. My bid would be $18, not $72,000.
PVC DAMAGE
Acetone or a commercial product like MS70 removes PVC damage caused by keeping coins in old flexible plastic flips. Sometimes, however, as in this coin, the damage is so severe that the green areas are eating into the metal. The coin is not grade-worthy.
RIM BUMP
These are easy to spot if you assess a coin from the rim inward. Otherwise you can miss this flaw. A bump is serious and can render a coin ungradeworthy. (The bump here is to the left of the “1” in the date.) A rim bump differs from a rim nick (usually caused by the edge of a bagged coin jostling the edge of another). A grade from PCGS or NGC is possible with a nick, depending on how many dings a coin has.
STAINED
Silver can stain based on where the coin is kept, whether it has been cleaned and retoned in streaks, or what substance may have reacted with the surface. Sometimes a dip can remove the stain, depending on its nature. (I haven’t had much luck with coins like this and don’t recommend dipping anyway unless done by an expert.) The coin is not gradeworthy.
WIPED
You can see the wipe on the second star from the bottom swirling upward to the middle of Lady Liberty’s neck. Usually this type of mark occurs when someone tries to clean a coin with a tissue. Depending on the severity of the wipe, a coin may or may not grade (usually the later).
Certainly there are other flaws less common than these, including altered surfaces (difficult to detect when done professionally). But these 12 common flaws show up more often than not in an online auction. My rule when bidding on raw coins is simple. If I detect a flaw, I don’t bid. Period.
What are your bidding rules? Have you ever won a coin online only to encounter one of these flaws? Share your stories!
Interesting article. I recently bought a 1824 Half that I had graded and thought it might be EF40 came back VF35 o-109 scratched. I knew it was a variety type but was totally surprised it is considered ex- jewelery. both obverse and reverse looked fine but some of the edge lettering was missing and or filled. Oh well, live and learn.
Ex-jewelry is one of those difficult to detect flaws. Usually you’ll notice marks or filler at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The trick when you see one mark on the rim to check to see if marks occur in regular intervals from the bezel. Thanks for sharing!
Very good article! Thanks!
Thanks Joe!
Good read. Are rim nicks just smaller rim bumps? I’ve seen sone minor bumps/nicks on old five francs coins graded by ngc with a clean grade.
A bump is a flattening or otherwise damaged rim.A nick happens typically when a coin dings another on the rim. Those are gradeworthy.
Grading, this will be my next quest, wonder how good I can be before death? My children and I can work together on this project so the legacy will live on, their eyes are better that mine. Thanks for all your articles Michael, from my family and I it is truly a blessing.
Great article! The best way to make sure you are not buying tampered with coins on eBay is to pay a little extra to get a PCGS or NGC certified coin. Hard to tell many types of coin alterations from most pictures
published on eBay. Hint: If the picture is poor on raw coins, most sellers are trying to hide something PCGS and NGC are not perfect, but I trust them more than my eye. If you are buying coins raw, do so in person, with a trusted coin dealer that you have formed a local relationship with. A major cause of Carbon and or dark tone streaks come from using rubber bands to store coins even if they are encapsulated.
Such good advice! I agree with what you state, especially about coin photography. And NGC and PCGS are very reliable. Thanks for sharing!
I wouldn’t recommend only buying raw in person. At least for world coins. If the pics, description, and seller on ebay are good, I don’t see why you shouldn’t buy a raw coin. Most of these 12 points I have learned from collecting over the years, so I’m quite safe. It can get expensive only buying graded coins, especially if ebay is one of the few places someone buys coins because shops and shows are too far away. I’d caution though that one should be very vigilant when buying online; if the pictures are not clear and the deal seems a little risky, don’t buy. Or email the seller, but be careful because some sellers are apt to mislead or obfuscate.
Thanks Joe. Your point is well-taken. The less one knows about grading and condition, the more one has to rely on TPG. The best online sellers are the most honest about photos and flaws.
Fell for the “proof-like” on a Barber quarter recently. The ebay pic looked great–but in-hand, the coin was obviously polished like a piece of silverware (although it was uncirculated). Great raw coins can be had on ebay–but it is a bit of a gamble.
The proof-like/polished error is frequent on eBay. Very discouraging. The photos can actually look prooflike, if Photoshop is used to get the “luster” just right. I always ask if a coin is polished when I suspect a prooflike coin. If the seller says no, you got a good claim against him. Thanks for writing, Todd.
Coinhusker Coin is right! Don’t buy any coin if you don’t like the look or the seller [who] uses eloquent euphemisms to describe a tainted coin. I purchased from a dealer before; never had a problem. I think Cornhusker is right about the security of certified coins–only until the day that a scandal erupts about the grading. For instance, there are many completely counterfeit coins coming from Asia. The value of the coin determines the extent of the temptation. There is no foolproof way to avoid being scammed. Know this going in and beef up your education. Otherwise stay away altogether. The other guidepost is to find an excellent dealer to buy from. They can save you losses and also make you money.
Good read. Great for beginners to learn and a nice reminder for more experienced hobbyists.
Thanks, John.
This is some really good information about coins and problems people find. Rim bump does seem like a smart thing to know about. After all, like you pointed out it could make the coin not work with machines. I wonder if those types of coins are collectible.